In South East Queensland, a cattle property is rarely just flat, open grass. From the Scenic Rim to the back of the Gold Coast, most of our clients are dealing with ridges, hidden gullies, and timbered slopes that would make a standard tractor operator turn around and head home. When Lantana takes over a 42-degree slope, it isn't just an eyesore; it’s a direct hit to your carrying capacity and a massive biosecurity risk.
We spend our days in the cab of high-flow mulchers, working on terrain that most people struggle to walk up. Over the years, we’ve heard the same frustrations from landholders who feel like they are losing the battle against regrowth. This Q&A covers the most common questions we get asked in the paddock about weed removal and, more importantly, how to keep your grass in front after the machines leave.
Why is traditional clearing failing on my steep hill country?
Most graziers we talk to have tried the "old school" methods first. They’ve gone in with a dozer or a tractor and slasher, only to find they can’t reach the steepest 4 hectares of the block where the Camphor Laurel is thickest.
The problem with dozers on steep slopes is soil disturbance. When you rip out a massive root ball on a vertical incline, you’re basically inviting the next big storm to wash your topsoil into the creek. Once that soil is gone, the only thing that grows back is more weeds. Forestry mulching changes this because we don't pull the plant out of the ground. We shred the vegetation into a fine mulch layer that stays on the surface. This creates an immediate blanket that prevents erosion and holds moisture for the grass seed. On slopes up to 45+ degrees, this isn't just the best way to clear, it’s often the only safe way.
What is the biggest mistake people make after the initial clearing?
The absolute "classic" mistake we see is the "one and done" mindset. A landholder gets us in to clear a massive stand of Privet or woody scrub, and the property looks like a golf course when we finish. They’re so happy with the result that they forget those weeds have been dropping seeds for a decade.
If you don't have a plan for follow-up spraying or pasture improvement within the first six months, those dormant seeds will see the sunlight and go crazy. We often tell clients to budget for a follow-up "spot spray" program. If you clear 10 hectares, spend the money you saved on manual labour to buy a good quality selective herbicide and stay on top of the small sprouts. If you let it go for two years, you’ll be calling us back to do the whole job again.
Can I really get grass to grow back on a vertical slope once the weeds are gone?
Yes, but you have to be smart about it. In regions like Beaudesert or Tamborine Mountain, the soil under a thick canopy of Wild Tobacco is usually pretty sour and bare. Once we mulch that material, it starts to break down and add carbon back into the soil.
For paddock reclamation on steep ground, we recommend over-sowing directly into the mulch layer. You don't need to plough or disc. The mulch protects the seed from being washed away and provides a micro-climate for germination. We’ve seen properties go from impassable scrub to productive Kikuyu or Rhodes grass paddocks in less than a season because the mulcher left the "good" soil behind.
How do I manage regrowth without spending every weekend with a backpack sprayer?
This is where your cattle come in. Once we’ve performed steep terrain clearing, the best way to maintain it is through high-pressure, short-duration grazing.
When you have fresh grass coming up through the mulch, the cattle will trample down any small weed seedlings that try to poke through. If you leave the clearing empty, the weeds have no competition. We suggest fencing off the newly cleared area if possible and "flash grazing" it. The hooves of the cattle help break down the mulch and push the grass seed into the ground. It turns a mechanical maintenance job into a natural grazing cycle.
Is it better to clear everything at once or do it in stages?
We get asked this a lot by people moving onto new blocks in the Scenic Rim or Logan area. If you have a heavily infested 50-acre block, trying to clear the whole lot at once can be overwhelming for maintenance.
We often advise starting with fire breaks and access tracks first. Get your boundaries clear so you can actually get a ute or an ATV around to manage the property. Once you have access, tackle the "head" of the gullies. Weeds like Balloon Vine often start in the dampest, hardest-to-reach spots and spread downwards. By using our specialized equipment to clear those 43-degree gully walls first, you stop the source of the seeds from blowing down into your prime flats.
What should I do about the "big" Camphor Laurels that are too large to mulch?
While our machines can mulch single stems up to a significant diameter, some of those old-growth Camphors in South East Queensland are massive. A common strategy we use is to mulch everything around the big "mother" trees. This gives you clear access to the base of the tree so you can perform a "drill and fill" or "frilling" technique with herbicide.
Once the tree dies standing, it loses its leaves and allows light to hit the ground, but it doesn't leave a massive hole in the soil like a bulldozer would. Over time, the dead timber becomes habitat or can be safely brought down once the pasture is established.
How do local councils feel about clearing these steep slopes?
Every council is different, whether you are under Gold Coast, Scenic Rim, or Brisbane City Council. However, most have specific exemptions for "maintenance of existing cleared areas" and "invasive weed control."
Because forestry mulching is considered a low-impact method, it is generally much more favourable than broadscale dozing. You aren't "clearing" native forest; you are removing "restricted matter" like Lantana. Always check your local overlay maps, but clearing woody weeds to restore grazing land is usually a high priority for regional biosecurity officers. We can often help identify which species on your property are the priority weeds that need to go first to satisfy council requirements.
How much "down time" is there after you clear a paddock?
None. That is the beauty of this system. Unlike burning, which leaves the ground scorched and vulnerable, or stick-raking, which leaves massive piles of debris, you can walk across a mulched paddock the same day. Your cattle can stay in the adjacent paddock, and you won't have to worry about them getting stuck in a boggy mess or tripping over slash.
If you are ready to stop looking at those weed-covered hills and start using them again, get a free quote from us. We'll come out, take a look at the gradient and the vegetation density, and give you a realistic plan to get your property back to its best. Don't wait until the Lantana hits the fence line; those steep slopes are productive land just waiting to be uncovered.